Fitting lightweight alloy wheels will help to reduce overall vehicle weight.Your suspension does not have to try to control 25kg of wheel and tyre bouncing around.

As wheels are unsprung, hitting every bump, dip, pothole and ripple strip you will get much sharper handling.

Beware however, lighter wheels are not always as strong so be prepared to compromise.

Body work can be lightened. The heaviest panels in a car tend to be the bonnet and the boot lid. Replacing these items with carbon fiber, fiberglass or aluminum equivalents can dramatically reduce weight. As carbon and fiberglass can flex at high speeds, be sure to fit proper fasteners at each corner. You can save money buy purchasing a second hand or slightly damaged panel and painting it, this will look standard and provide the benefits of being lighter.

Front fenders and rear quarter panels can also be replaced providing weight saving. You can also purchase wider versions of these guards to allow you to fit more rubber in. The front and rear bumpers can also be replaced, with many body kit varieties out there on the shelf in fiberglass. This can also improve the visuals of your car in addition to saving weight.

A roll cage will only add minimal weight but the benefits outweigh the weight increase. A roll cage will provide extreme safety benefits, improve handling (as the car will be more rigid) and allow you additional weight saving as you can strip more metal from the car such as side impact beams. Many other metal sections can be lightened by drilling holes in them or cutting sections away. Ensure you know what you are doing as you must retain the structure of the car.

You can just about remove everything from the interior of the car. Take out the glove box, the center console, gear stick surrounds, door trims, the stereo and speakers, carpet, all passenger seats, the dashboard, sound deadening, the sub in the boot, all your boot lining, the spare wheel, the factory tools, anything lurking in the boot or cabin. Door hinges and locks can also be removed (the doors will probably need to be welded shut, however welding will add more strength to the body of the car). Glass also weighs quite significantly, removing the glass and replacing with perspex will shave off the pounds.

There are numerous engine components which are also heavy. You should consider removing the whole air conditioning and heating system. Some engine components have aftermarket lighter versions, such as the alternator, water pump, flywheel, pistons, connecting rods, the block itself, the head, etc. Whilst this is starting to get literally down to the nuts and bolts, saving 200 grams in ten places reduces weight by 2kg.

The more extreme you wish to go, the more weight savings you can find. When you begin to look at every component in the car and wonder if you really need it or if there’s a lighter version available you’re on the right track.

Last but not least…

Go on a diet yourself! Have you ever seen an extremely fat racer win a race (excluding NASCAR)?

For example, in Formula 1, the average driver weighs 66kg and is 1.8m tall.

If you were 80kg at the time of writing and got down to 66kg, you’ve just saved 14kg without having to change a thing on your car!

Basic #1 – Servicing
Check and change all your fluids and oils regularly. These include your engine oil, transmission oil/fluid, coolant and differential oils. The general servicing schedule is usually as follows:
– Engine oil and filter: Change every 5,000 – 10,000km
– Transmission & Differential Oil/Fluid: 15,000 – 20,000km
– Copper Spark plugs: 30,000 – 40,000km
– Iridium / Platinum Spark Plugs: 80,000 – 120,000km
– Brake and Clutch fluid (inspect your pads at the same time): 50,000km or two years
– Coolant: 80,000 – 100,000km or four years
– Steering fluid: 80,000 – 100,000km or four years
– Air filter: 25,000 – 30,000km
– Fuel Filter: 25,000 – 30,000km or three years
– Belts (incl Timing Belt): 80,000 – 100,000km

Note that these are guidelines only and you should consult your car manufacturer’s manual. These will also depend on the conditions your car operates under, for example your air filter would be changed more regularly in a rural area where there is more dust being sucked into the engine. If you drive your car in an aggressive manner, you should also consider reducing the service intervals.

You should also check your tires (include your spare) when you perform your oil change. For any abnormal wear patterns, you should speak to a tire professional as you may need a wheel alignment or there may be something seriously wrong with your vehicle!

Basic #2 – Car Cleanliness
It’s amazing how your car can be transformed after some cleaning. You don’t have to go and pay for your car to be professionally detailed by the same place the Porsche dealer gets his cars cleaned out. You can easily get your car spic and span by washing it correctly. Start with some good car wash formula, a decent polish, some tyre shine and glass cleaner.

The tool’s you need are simple, some wash mitts, a couple of buckets, some basic rags, cotton/microfibre cloths and a chamois. The wash mitts are handing for getting the soap in hard to reach places and scrubbing off deposits. You should use two buckets, one with ‘clean’ water that you apply to the car’s surface and a ‘dirty’ water bucket that you rinse the mitt off in to avoid putting dirt back on your paint.

Dry your car off with a chamois so that water doesn’t dry off on the car and leave dust spots, wet spots and streaks. Pay attention to your glass. It is very easy to get streaks and marks and this will not only impair your vision but will look very messy. You can usually clean the brake dust off your rims with newspaper but the ultra fussy may consider a soft toothbrush and some proper rim cleaner.

Done correct, your car will look transformed!

Basic #3 – Tooling yourself
You should probably get some tools, so you can fix up little things like that rattling dash or the engine cover that’s coming unbolted. There are a few basic tools you will need that will keep you out of most situations.
– Drive Ratchets and sockets (Metric or SAE)
– Spanners (Metric or SAE)
– Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flat head)
– Jack
– Jack stands
– Cross-brace

Buy only the sockets and spanners that suit your car. SAE is in inches and Metric is in millimeters. You will find that a 1/2″ spanner can be used on a 12mm, but since they are slightly bigger you’ll just end up rounding your nuts and bolts, making them almost impossible to remove! Japanese and all newer cars tend to use metric, whilst your old American based cars (GM, Ford, etc) tend to use SAE.

Keep some of the basic tools tucked away with your spare tyre wheel well or if your car is lacking tucked away in your boot. You never know when you might just need that screwdriver!

Basic #4 – Car Security
Straight up, having an alarm and immobilizer is a must. This will keep the average joy rider away from your car and may make your local thief think twice about punching the glass for the change in your ash tray. Go for an alarm that offers three point immobilization so that your basic car thief won’t be able to hot wire it. Extra features like SMS alert, satellite tracking, shock and motion sensors are handy to have if you live in a dangerous area, park on the streets or want to feel secure.

If you can’t afford a fancy alarm, get the best you can afford and a steering or pedal lock. It’s a huge visual deterrent and most thieves would rather get a job over and done as quick as possible. Also contact your local auto electrician and see if you can get a kill switch installed. It’s an old trick that will keep thieves guessing, hopefully long enough to get caught.

Basic #5 – Driving Advice
Prevent yourself from slamming your car into the gutter when reverse parking by using your left side mirror pointed down. This is easier if you have power mirrors and will stop you scrubbing your tire’s sidewall against the gutter and stopping your rim from getting a bit of rash on it. You will also be able to tell if you are ‘sticking out’ and are too far away from the curb.

When it comes to fuel economy, smoothness is the key. Save fuel by laying off the gas pedal everywhere you go. Sure it’s fun to race up to the speed limit, but it’s an empty hole in your wallet. Considering the price of petrol is going up, this is becoming more and more of an issue. On roads with a series of continuous traffic lights, try to accelerate and brake as gently as you can so your car remains in motion (even at a crawling pace). There’s no point smashing the accelerator only to brake hard 100m up the road for that light which is still red. You’re wasting petrol and brake pad.

Attending a defensive driving course or two. Also consider a instructed track day. These will help you get a feel for your car and teach you some really important tips for driving safely. There are so many things you should be keeping an eye out on the road and a good driving instructor will make them second nature to yourself, such as the driver who keeps peering at his left mirror whom you can assume wants to merge across.

Basic #6 – Insurance
It pays to have insurance. Cars are fairly expensive to repair and being uninsured is a big risk. The last thing you want to do is hit that brand new Mercedes because they’ll be buying a set of brand new parts from the local dealership and believe us, it’s expensive!

The most basic cover is usually third party, with fire and theft as an option. However, we highly recommend full comprehensive. With full insurance no matter what the situation, your insurance company will fix your car and if necessary do all the chasing up and taking of other parties to court to recover their costs. This also guarantees you can get a repair job up to the quality you expect. There is no downside to full comprehensive other than the price. Most offer affordable monthly payments or a discounted rate for paying the whole year in advance.

Another form of insurance is also roadside assistance. This is great as you can get a free tow when your car breaks down and have somebody come out and fix smaller problems such as keys locked in the car, flat tires or dead battery. For around $200 a year for the top packages, this is something you should definitely consider.

Things you will need:

• Carbon Wrap
• Razor Blade
• Sharp Scissors
• Adhesive/Contact Spray (Recommend 3M Super77 or Super90)
• Alcohol Wipes or cleaner

Step 2.
Apply a nice even thick coat of adhesive/contact spray. If using 3M products, let Super77 adhesive “tack” for 30 seconds, or Super90 for 60 seconds.

Step 3.
Overlay carbon wrap piece that you cut from Step 1 and work your way from inside out. Make sure you work all the wrinkles off. If you mess up just peel upwards and redo the section. The adhesive will take care of any errors.

Step 4.
Let your piece dry, and then flip it backwards to take care of the cutouts, vents, gauges, etc. Trim about 1/4″ along the inside edge of the opening. Once finished, cut slits at the corners for nice tight corner wraps.

Step 5.
Apply adhesive to the edges of the sections being wrapped and fold over the 1/4″ overhangs nice and tightly. Do this for both the outside edges, and the cutout edges. Your piece should be coming along nicely by now…

Step 6.
Flip around and feast your eyes on some wonderful carbon fiber fabric goodness!

Step 7.
Make sure you remember to do the ashtray covers with the same procedure. Remove any metal tabs or accents and re-install them after with a bit of hot glue gun if necessary.

Step 8.
Install in car and enjoy!

Firstly you should know, we are against obtaining finance for any motor vehicle. A motor vehicle is a depreciating asset, it will go down in price. There are some exceptions such as collector cars, however this is another large bet as you would usually purchase as new and store away ‘betting’ that it goes up in value.

Finance is a losing game, you’ve not only paid for something that’s dropping down in price, you’re also paying interest. This means the amount of money you’re losing is doubled.

You only need to look at car forums to see the countless people with regret on spending so much on their car when they could now be living in a comfortable house.

However this is something you should probably speak to your accountant or financial planner about.

Your first port of call should be large car yards or ‘car supermarkets’. Any location where the number of car dealers is large and the area you need to cover is low. Tell the car dealers firmly that you are just looking, they are there to sell and you can easily find yourself leaving a deposit, however take as many test drives as you can as there is no obligation to purchase.

Sit yourself in as many cars as you physically can, see what feels comfortable and what feels right. Chances are you already have a make and model or type of car in mind, however it does not hurt to see what options the other manufacturers and models offer. Look at old cars that you wouldn’t normally consider. The reason is some old cars have pretty nifty features that you normally wouldn’t think about, or might have the dials and switches in a certain layout that feels more comfortable. The more you inspect the greater feel you’ll have for what you are actually looking for.

Look at all the various trim levels in the models you are interested in. For example a LX may have a cheaper interior feel than an RX, or a GLi may not have the leather seats that you want that you get in a Ghia. Try to find information about what was optional and offered standard for that year, make and model.

You should now have a good idea of what you are looking for. Try to find a car forum or car club for that particular type of car. You will find that there is an internet car forum for almost every make and model and you can usually trade somebodies expertise and have them come assist you in inspecting the car for a cheap six-pack of their favorite beverage.

Also, once you find your model and trim level use Facebook/Twitter/MSN/etc. There is probably out there somewhere who has an aunt, brother, girlfriend, mother, friend of a friend who has been considering selling the same car as you want to buy.

Somebody also might know a car wholesaler or be relatives with a car dealer that has one and will cut you a special deal. I’ve met a few car wholesalers, they can either give you leverage on a car dealer (let you know how much he got it for, so you know how much you can squeeze) or might have one in stock, exact same as you’re looking for!

Look through your trading post. Find every model in the exact same trim level you are after and look around. Prices can be up to $3000 different. Look at some other ones. Private Sales can usually be pushed lower than a car dealer. This means you can look at cars slightly out of your price range, most can easily be negotiated down or can be made to include extras such as a full period of registration.

If you fall in love with a model collect details such as Registration Number, Chassis Number/VIN Number, Engine Number, Colour and Trim level. You should check with your RTA that this car has not had any accident history or be covered under finance. If you are purchasing from a car dealer, they are meant to check this, however they can sell a car ‘as traded’ and are not required to perform any of these checks.

If you find something you really want and just can’t wait to put a deposit, put on the bill of sale that purchase is subject to a mechanical investigation. We prefer mechanically inspect the car prior to leaving a deposit, this way you will not have to go through hoops to get my money back.

For a mechanical inspection either look to your new car club/forum friend, a mobile service or a nearly mechanic shop. Alternatively if your personal mechanic is close, you can usually have the car taken there. Just be aware some mechanics receive a large amount of work from car dealers and will pass the car even if it has faults.

If the car is given a pass and you’ve left a deposit, you’re now obligated to purchase. However, if the car has a few issues, you are welcome to walk away with your full deposit.

Don’t forget to arrange insurance before you pick up the car if you’ve purchased it.

Is It Dangerous?
You could say its dangerous to have an LSD that keeps both wheels spinning and lets the rear kick out as opposed to an open wheeler which will not kick the rear out. For drift, it is all about car control with the rear end almost always slipping. To begin with, a standard LSD in good condition will serve you well. It will kick out a lot less then after-market differentials but still hang the rear out on acceleration extremely well.

If you are worried about fishtailing snappiness, this will depend on the car and it’s weight distribution. For example, the weight distribution of 180s make them more snappier than a Silvia due to the added weight of the hatch. Even more extreme than the 180 is the MR2 due to the mid-mounted motor. On the other hand, you’ll probably find Cefiro’s and 4 Door Skylines are more stable and less snappy.

Why is my LSD spinning only one wheel?
As you progress in drift, your standard LSD wears out and single spins more and more. When it is wearing out it is far from being as predictable as a 2way or locked/shimmed differential. The only way the two latter options would be less predictable is when they are similarly worn out and open wheeling or you are simply not used to the differential.

What are my options?
Locked Differential
+ Always locks up
+ Very predictable
+ Will start whining before it breaks (Giving you notice)
+ Cheapest option
- Poor turn-in (under-steer will be more noticeable when entering a corner)
- Will break eventually and require a full replacement
- Your car will not be able to drive when it breaks
- Wears out your tyres the most out of all options
- Can be dangerous for inexperienced drivers
- Usually classed as illegal for street use

Shimmed Differential
+ Can allow some slip
+ When it’s worn out you will not require a tow
- Costs more
- Poor turn in (under-steer will be more noticeable when entering a corner)
- Will wear out and slowly start open wheeling, until it no longer locks
- Life span is shortest
- Wears tyres as much as locked differential
- Considered a locked differential so illegal

Standard LSD
+ Good for starting out in drift
+ Good on the street as it does not lock on deceleration
+ Good turn in
- Not as predictable as other options
- Will wear out extremely fast with drifting
- Most older model differentials will already be showing signs of wearing out

Mechanical 1.5way
+ Predictable
+ Lifespan is far longer than a locked/shimmed/standard LSD
+ Can be rebuilt
+ Will lock when accelerating and half lock on deceleration
+ Good turn in
+ Good for circuit work
+ Better on the street than a 2way
- Not as good for drift than a 2way
- Expensive

Mechanical 2way
+ Very predictable. Has some slip when required.
+ Lifespan is far longer than locked/shimmed/standard LSD
+ Can be rebuilt
+ Drift differential of choice
+ Will lock when accelerating and decelerating
+ Good turn-in
- Expensive
- Can be dangerous for inexperienced drivers

Its good to know your differential well. Nissan S13′s have a tendency to go out of control on public roads partly due to the combo of Turbo, rear wheel drive and LSD. So its best to exercise caution when you have a RWD with an LSD. Breaking traction intentionally or unintentionally (especially in the wet) can get out of control.

If you are not comfortable performing any of the tasks listed below, we highly recommend you take your vehicle to a mechanic well before (at least a week) prior to the event. This way any major tasks have more than enough time to be completed, keeping in mind parts may need to be ordered from other states or countries.

1. Check your brakes.
Make sure your pads, discs and/or drums are in top condition. Check you have enough brake fluid. If you need to change your pads, make sure you have enough time to correctly bed them in before going to the track. Many enthusiasts upgrade pads, discs and fluid they use which improves not only track performance but performance on the road.

2. Tyres
These need to be in really good condition at the correct pressures. There is no one setting fits all here, as there are a large number of variables to be taken into account. Some of these are weight of your car, temperature on the day, track conditions, personal preference and tyre manufacturer. Many choose to increase pressure around 10% to reduce the tyre wear, however you may find more grip from lowering the pressure. Before you arrive at the track, stop by a service station and ensure pressures are even and then check them again when they are at track temperatures. An investment in a small tyre pressure gauge may be worthwhile.

3. Filters/Belts/Fluids
Your engine is going to be spending a lot more time at the top end of the tacho than your regular driving. We normally perform a full service our cars prior to the track, including changing all the oils (Engine, Gearbox, and Differential), Filters (Air, Fuel, and Oil), spark plugs and coolant. Now will be a good time to check your belts and clutch or automatic transmission fluid.

Bring some spare oil with you as your car may burn some off during a track day. Do not be alarmed if you need to top it up, it is normal for your car to consume some oil during a track day. Just make sure you keep it near the max mark, however do not overfill your oil as this can cause more damage.

4. Suspension and steering
These will ultimately decide how well your car handles and how comfortable you feel out on the track. Make sure these are in good working order and don’t go if you have faulty or worn out parts. Any faults you find at 100km/h will become much worse the faster you go. A good recommendation is to always have a wheel alignment performed by a professional the day before the track event and ask them to check everything is okay.

5. Bodywork
Your bodywork should be in relatively good order. Remove any hub caps. Check your wheels are bolted on correctly, especially if you have changed to a different set of rims prior to the day. Check your bumpers, wings, side skirts are on correctly, once again important if you have an aftermarket body kit. The last thing you want is for you to drive over your aftermarket, fibreglass front bumper shattering it to bits and possibly damaging something else.
Bring some electrical, gaffer or race tape with you as some event organisers may require you to tape up your lights before going on the circuit. Even if they do not necessarily require this, consider doing this anyway as any accidents will require less time spent sweeping up glass. The glass will come off as one piece instead of shattering, making it easier for the ground crew to clean up and less time wasted with them sweeping the area.

6. In-cabin
Remove all loose items from your car. Pens, soft-drink cans, coins, screws, etc can become lethal projectiles. Remove items from your glove box, ash tray and storage compartments as these can fly open accidently unleashing more hazards. Clear everything from your boot, including the jack, spare wheel and any tools. There is usually somewhere to leave any tools you do decide to bring with you at the track but remember that neither the track nor event promoters are responsible for your belongings so leave your expensive stuff at home.

A fire extinguisher is not compulsory for most events as most have Fire Marshals who will take care of any fire. However if you plan to regularly attend events, you should consider purchasing an in-car extinguisher to keep in the cabin. Make sure it is securely fastened though and it will stay in place should you get involved in an accident.

7. Fuel
This sounds extremely obvious but it is extremely important. You will lose a large amount of fuel economy on the track. Fill up your car before reaching the track and ensure it remains above half a tank before each session for two reasons. The first is that you may experience fuel surge, where your car will effectively run out of petrol mid corner as fuel slides to a side of the tank away from your in-tank pump. The second reason is that you may end up stranded on the track with marshals pushing your car to a safe place (not necessarily the pit area) and may be left there until the end of the session or for the really unlucky until a break for lunch or the end of the day. Under no circumstances will you be allowed back on the track to fill your car whilst others are driving. Everybody will have to stop and wait for your car to be either refilled or moved off the track which results in less activity for others.

8. A simple tool kit
Prepare a simple tool kit. This should usually include a set of spanners, a socket set (with the correct size for your wheel nuts), a breaker bar and ratchet, a rag or two, tyre pressure gauge, electrical tape, cable ties, race tape, pliers, Phillips head screwdriver and a flat head screwdriver. You may not end up using all these tools but they are the bare minimum to get your car running should anything happen. A jerry can pre-filled with some petrol may also be a good idea, especially if your car isn’t fuel economic at the best of times.

9. Yourself
This may sound completely obvious but ensure you get a good night’s sleep the night prior. Consider passing on partying the night before and steer clear from alcohol and drugs. Most events will not allow you to race if you appear to be intoxicated or under the influence. Try to wake up at least an hour prior to you leaving for the event, this will give you enough time to eat a good breakfast, quickly recheck everything, calm your nerves and come to full awareness.

Keep yourself hydrated at the track, especially on a hot day. You will need to wear clothes that cover the full length of your legs and arms regardless of the temperature that day. You will be required to wear a helmet, you can either purchase your own (which we highly recommend if you plan to keep attending track days) otherwise you may be able to rent some at the event. Ensure you check with the facilities prior as you do not want to have to leave to go purchase a helmet.

When you get there, just remember to have fun!

If this is your first event, you will usually find some instructors hanging around able to jump into your car and assist you. If this isn’t available, some tracks allow passengers and you may find a willing, more experienced driver to come sit with you and help you out.

The next morning, your battery is flat again. This article will help you to diagnose what could be wrong.

Possible reasons your battery keeps going flat:
– You left something on. Headlights, interior light, key in the ignition on the “On” or “Acc” position, etc
– The battery is not charging when you drive it
– There is drain on the battery whilst the car is off
– Your battery may require maintenance, has dropped a cell or will not hold charge anymore

Checking your batteries state of charge
First you will need to check your battery and the alternator. First, try turning on your headlights. If they appear dim or do not come on at all then you’re on the right track. If they appear at full brightness, then it may be a faulty starter motor, bad wiring to the starter or a faulty solenoid/relay.

To check your battery, you will require a multimeter. You could get away with a voltmeter, especially if you have one as a factory or after-market gauge in your car. However for the other tests listed here, a multimeter is indispensable. You want to select a range or scale that will clearly show you between 10-20 volts.

Connect the black (COM on the multimeter) to the battery’s negative (labelled – or black in colour) terminal. Connect the red (VΩmA on the multimeter) to the battery’s positive terminal (labelled + or red in colour). If you get these back to front on a multimeter, they show the same voltage, just as a negative. You’ll get -12.6V instead of 12.6V. It’s better to swap the terminals around as this may cause inaccurate readings later.

A fully charged battery should read around 12.6V, depending on the ambient temperature. Anything around or less than 12.4V and you’ve got a problem, the battery is discharged (or flat) and needs recharging. Keep in mind these readings are at around 26°C. The battery will drop around 0.01V for every 5°C below this.

Check your battery and charging system
Jump start your car and connect the volt/multimeter to the battery as before.

If your charging system is working correctly, at idle your car should produce between 13.5-14.5V. If you’re less than 13.5V on idle, your battery will not charge correctly. The common culprit will be your alternator, which you should have tested at an auto electricians to ensure it is outputting the correct current. If it is not, you should replace the alternator.

After the battery has been charged, you should have it tested to see if it can hold charge. This can be done by most auto workshops as it requires an electronic battery tester or conventional load tester.

Parasitic drain on the battery when car is off
If your battery is less than six years old, and you’re still trying to identify the issue, the next thing to investigate is how much load there is from the battery with your car fully switched off.

On older cars that lack complicated electronics, the load should be almost nothing. Maybe a few milliamps for a clock or digital radio. On newer cars however, the key off load may range from 15 to 50 milliamps to as much as 300 to 400 milliamps. Some cars will draw 850 to 1000 (1 amp) for around half an hour after the car is turned off.

Just be wary with changing or disconnecting the battery in some vehicles. Some Subaru’s have a keypad alarm that will require the vehicle to be towed to Subaru to have a ‘master code’ entered to disable the immobiliser. Other cars may require the security code to be entered on the stereo before this works, may require settings to relearn climate control, seating positions, remote central locking remotes, etc. You can avoid this by obtaining a back up battery that connects to the cigarette lighter or using an auxiliary battery whilst you replace your original.

To measure the load on your battery, you should open the bonnet or trunk (wherever the battery is stored) and wait approximately one hour. This is for newer cars as some modules will be reactivated by opening a door or bonnet and may cause a much higher reading than expected.

You will require a multimeter for this.
1. Set your multimeter to measure mA. If the meter is not auto-ranging, you want to go with 100 or 1000mV scale.
2. Connect up your backup battery (or not, if you’re willing to risk it which isn’t recommended) and then disconnect one of the terminals of the battery.
3. Disconnect one of the cables connected to your battery and connect one of the multimeter leads to this.
4. Connect the other lead of the multimeter to the battery terminal where you removed the cable from.
5. Note the reading on your multimeter.

Causes of excessive power drain may be things such as lights left on (trunk, glovebox, headlights, interior lights, map lights), relays stuck open or modules that are not powering down and going to sleep.

To find the cause of drain on the battery
If the reading is too high, it’s time to start identifying the cause.

Refer to your vehicles manual to locate the fuse boxes and relay locations. Generally there is one fuse box in the car and a fuse box in the engine bay with associated relays. You want to start with anything not related to the car’s necessary electronics such as it’s ECU or Computer, ABS modules. Start with heaters, defrosters, etc.

Pull out a fuse and observe the reading on the multimeter. If the current load drops, then the faulty equipment is located on this circuit. For example, many cars have a fuse for rear defroster. If the current drops after removing this fuse, you will need to check the relay, the switch and the defroster unit itself. Should the current not drop, you should replace that fuse and move to the next.

Alternative solutions
You may find a faulty alternator diode can cause the battery to run flat. The diodes in the alternator are designed to only allow charging of the battery, if one has failed it will allow the alternator to draw current from the battery when it is in the off position. You can check this using your multimeter to measure AC voltage. If you get a reading of any AC voltage, your alternator has a failed diode. Alternatively, if you do not have access to a multimeter, you can disconnect the alternator overnight and see if the battery still runs flat. If so, replace your alternator.

Your battery may require maintenance. Newer battery tend to be sealed and therefore can not be serviced, in this case you should replace the battery. If your battery is not sealed, you should see six to eight caps (usually yellow in color with a small hole for venting of gas). You should take off the caps and ensure there is adequate water in each cell. Do not overfill however!

Should you fail to diagnose the problem, you could either try replacing the battery or taking it to an auto electrician for further investigation.

In order to perform diagnostic (and ECU resets) you will need to connect some wires together under your steering column.
Note, the following procedure is intended for Rs liberty’s & Gc8′s, it may apply to GD WRX also.

1. Make sure your ignition is OFF
2. Connect the Black ‘Read Memory’ connectors together as illustrated below.

Figure 1 – Black and Green Connectors on GC8

When the above are connected you are in diagnostics mode.
3. Turn your ignition ON and ‘read’ the ECU code(s) being reported according to the following instructions. Note, you may here relays clicking and your fan starting and stopping – this is normal when in diagnostics mode.

4. If no codes are indicated switch the ignition off and disconnect the diagnostic connectors

In Diagnostic Mode – No Fault is indicated by the Check Engine Light continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset).

The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds).

The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed.

Note – not all error codes are not stored and are not documented (though they are all decoded by a Select Monitor) some of these may be found in the next section.
Code ITEM
11 Crankshaft position sensor
12 Starter switch
13 Camshaft position sensor
21 Engine coolant temperature sensor
22 Knock sensor
23 Mass air flow sensor
24 Idle air control solenoid
31 Throttle position sensor
32 Oxygen sensor
33 Vehicle speed sensor 2
35 Purge control solenoid valve
42 Idle switch
44 Wastegate control solenoid valve
45 Pressure sensor –Pressure exchange solenoid valve
51 Neutral position switch

Other Subaru Codes

These codes are not documented in the Impreza Workshop manual but are mentioned in other Subaru Documentation (and can be decoded by a Select Monitor), these may or may not be applicable to the Impreza.
Code ITEM
11 Crank angle Sensor or Circuit
12 Starter Switch or Circuit
13 Cam Position Sensor or Circuit (TDC Sensor on Justy)
14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX)
18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX)
19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX)
21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit
22 Knock Sensor or Circuit (Right Side on SVX)
23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit (Exc. Justy)
24 Air Control Valve or Circuit (Exc. Justy)
25 Fuel injector No. 3 and 4 (XT-6)
26 Air Temperature Sensor (Justy)
28 Knock Sensor No. 2 (SVX, Left Side)
29 Crank Angle Sensor (SVX, No. 2)
31 Throttle Position Sensor or Circuit
32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit (No. 1, Right Side, On SVX)
33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit
34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit
35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit
36 Air Suction Solenoid Valve (Impreza)
37 Oxygen Sensor (No. 2, Left Side, On SVX)
38 Engine Torque Control (SVX)
41 Air/Fuel Adaptive Control
42 Idle Switch or Circuit
43 Throttle Switch
44 Wastegate Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models)
45 Pressure Sensor Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models)
45 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor or Circuit (Non-Turbo Models)
46 Neutral or Parking Switch or Circuit
47 Fuel Injector
49 Airflow Sensor
51 Neutral Switch (Manual Transmission Models)
51 Inhibitor Switch (Automatic Transmission Models)
52 Parking Brake Switch (Exc. Justy)
53 Fuel Pump or Circuit
54 Choke Control System
55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit
56 EGR System
57 Canister Control System
58 Air Control System
61 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid (Impreza)
62 Fuel Temperature Sensor (Impreza)
63 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (Impreza)
64 Vacuum Line Control Valve or Circuit
65 Vacuum Pressure Sensor
66 Sequential turbo system
67 Exhaust valve solenoid (positive pressure)
68 Exhaust valve duty solenoid
71 Ignition Pulse System
73 Ignition Pulse System
74 Ignition Pulse System
88 TBI Control Unit